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Dining & Nightlife

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Taste for Adventure

Sample a savory blend of Dutch and Caribbean cuisines.

By Jennifer van der Kwast

Wherever you play and wherever you stay, you will find great places to eat and drink nearby. Sample several savory spots at Zuikertuin, Sea Aquarium Beach, Caracasbaai, Willemstad and Banda Abou.


ZUIKERTUIN. By day, Zuikertuin is a shopping mall. By night, it is the place to see and be seen. Gran Café de Heeren is the leader of the pack, with the loudest music, the biggest crowds and the greatest bar bites, like the addictive deep-fried bitterballen. This classic European café may look Dutch, but the up-all-night party atmosphere is definitely Antillean. Drop by on popular Cuba Libre Thursday, when twirling couples spill into the streets.

For a more refined dinner, begin with a global wine tasting, then progress to grilled snapper or seared tuna at Omundo, on the other side of the mall. Dining in this candle-lit lounge is more sedate, but don’t let the wall of fine wines fool you. The house gets plenty rowdy for Friday night’s happy hour, when locals come to kick off the weekend.

Across the parking lot, Asia de Cuba is Zuikertuin’s real showstopper. This Pan-Asian-Latin fusion spares no detail: red walls, Moroccan lanterns and, the most essential element, a jam-packed dance floor. With an ambience this festive, the food doesn’t even have to be good. So what a pleasant surprise to discover that it is actually superb. Menu items like the Caribbean-influenced criollo bakijauw sushi roll and the honey-glazed tamarind duck are sure-fire hits. Themes like “wok night” on Monday and Tuesday draw discerning diners with stir-fried vegetables and sizzling meats.

SEA AQUARIUM BEACH. When Zuikertuin shuts down on Sunday, the party salsas over to Sea Aquarium Beach without skipping a beat. This is the Caribbean beach party you always imagine: shirts and shoes are optional; drinking and dancing are required.

The beach bars at Sea Aquarium serve a triple purpose: one-stop spot to groove, booze and eat fish. Mambo Beach hosts a fish market on Friday night. On Saturday, it gets coupled with a dance party, because the best way to digest grouper is to spin under the stars until dawn. At the opposite end of this palm-studded beach, food is the star at Hemingway Beach Bar. On the open-air terrace, linger over dishes like Cajun-fried tilapia with tangy mango jalapeño sauce, or beef tenderloin with caramelized garlic sauce. You cannot go wrong with the catch of the day, served Creole-style with a spicy flair. On Sunday night, a live Cuban band, Los Compadres, sets the mood. Come between 5:30 and 6:40 p.m. if you could use a salsa course or refresher. Instructors are on hand to give pointers. Need more courage before a whirl on the dance floor? Make “Papa” Hemingway proud and indulge in a classic Cuban mojito. Or two.

CARACASBAAI. For a peaceful starlit night away from the beach bars, take refuge at Il Forno, a family-run Italian place in the residential neighborhood of Caracasbaai. Day-trippers come here to cap off a sun-kissed day at the beach, with zesty salads and crispy brick-oven pizzas. The thatch-roofed restaurant is just far enough from the beach to avoid the crowds, but close enough so the balmy sea breezes can soothe your glowing new tan. Save room for dessert — insiders swear by the tiramisu.

Out-of-the-way El Gaucho restaurant, on the top of the Klein Zurzak hill, may be harder to find, but there are two rewards for persistence. First is a panoramic view of the island, an unexpected side of Curaçao with a lush oasis above a rolling landscape, across the valley from a striking 18th-century monastery. Second is an exquisitely tender Argentine steak paired with a standout red wine. Plan for dinner here to last all evening, starting with cocktails on the scenic veranda at dusk, ending with decadent desserts after dark.

WILLEMSTAD. Thrill seekers begin their culinary adventures in Punda, at the food stalls of the Bieuw Marshe (Old Market), an in-the-know hangout in which to sample real krioyo, Antillean Creole cuisine. Don’t be afraid to browse the aromatic pots of daily specials before committing to a vendor. Look for signature dishes like galiña stoba, a tangy chicken stew, and piská korá, the local red snapper, each grilled with a side of fried funchi.

Across the harbor in Otrobanda, the Astrolab Observatory Restaurant sets a standard of excellence among Curaçao’s fine-dining establishments. The emphasis here is on quality, including attentive service, romantic garden decor and decorative plating. Come here when you deserve lobster and foie gras, but expect the bill to reflect the indulgence.

If the one-of-a-kind setting of this hotel — a stunning complex of restored colonial buildings — is the draw, then consider an alternative. Let the whiff of tantalizingly exotic dishes like tandoori lobster seduce you at Jaipur Restaurant, located on an outdoor patio alongside a moonlit swimming grotto.

Stretch your evening at the Kurá Hulanda with a game of chance at the boutique, European-style casino. Nearby are the Otrobanda Hotel & Casino, Howard Johnson Curaçao Plaza Hotel & Casino, Veneto Casino & Holiday Beach Resort, and Renaissance Curaçao, one of the largest in the Caribbean. Back across the bridge in Punda, nightlife takes a turn for the swanky in the up-and-coming Pietermaai Smal district. When the eclectic, mosaic-tiled Mundo Bizarro opened its cocktail bar in 2008, it single-handedly ushered in a renaissance for this once-affluent neighborhood. Pietermaai is now home to hip new bars, including the sleek, minimalist-chic, waterfront Moon. White-canopy pool beds with big yellow pillows are much-coveted spots for prime sunset viewings.

BANDA ABOU. No Curaçao vacation is complete without a trip to the wild and rugged west coast, home to off-the-beaten-path restaurants. Begin the day by fueling up on pannekoeken, the crepe-thin Dutch pancakes, at Landhuis Daniel, just off the road to Westpunt. This yellow plantation house dates to 1650, but it was restored in 1997 as a restaurant and hotel. Among the breakfast menu options are the savory pannekoeken (ham and Dutch Gouda cheese), the sweet varieties (rum raisin) and the combinations (ham, cheese and pineapple).

Many people flock to this side of the island for the legendary sopi piská (fish soup) at Jaanchies, a family-run insider’s favorite for more than 60 years. But here is another secret: the sopi piská is just as hearty and delicious at Landhuis Dokterstuin, a renovated plantation house near Ascension. For an authentic tropical island experience — from explosive flavors to the banana quit birds that sometimes pick the food off your plate — you cannot go wrong with either option.

DIY FINE DINING

Angelica’s Kitchen, created by Angelique Schoop, is located on a residential street in Otrobanda. When Schoop envisioned the place, she imagined an inviting setting where people could gather to enjoy a sumptuous Caribbean meal but also the thrill of creating and sharing the meal. These days, the cooking classes are led by protégé Clarita Hagenaar, who loves to cook, teach and introduce visitors to the flavors of her home.

After Hagenaar gives a brief demonstration of the planned lunch recipes, she divides the class into groups of four to tackle each item individually — perhaps a sopi pampuna to start, or the jerk chicken entrée, or a flan for dessert. Two hours later, students reunite to dine alfresco at the communal table on the back patio. By the time lunch is over, everyone leaves with a full belly, some new friends and, of course, a take-home kit of delicious local recipes. (Angelica’s Kitchen: 462-3270, 517-2966 (Clarita’s cell phone); www.angelicas-kitchen.com) (Angelica’s Delights: 465-3222, www.angelicasdeligths.com, Hours: Tue.–Fri. 10 a.m.–6 p.m., Sat.–Sun. 9 a.m.–6 p.m., Mon. closed)

For more delicious dining options, use our Dining & Nightlife Guide.

Cooking with Style

They pressed their aprons, donned their chef's hats and sharpened their knives, so when the Curaçao Culinary Team showed up in Puerto Rico for the 2009 Taste of the Caribbean Festival in June 2009, they looked good! Hotel Kurá Hulanda's Shurandy Carolie, Floris Suite's Roxien Granviel, and Avila Hotel's Rensley de Jongh and Misherella Rooi cranked the heat way up to show off their chops against 13 other Caribbean teams. The team took second place for creative food stylings and professional knife skills. But more important, it nabbed the prize that any Antillean chef with a passion for food would covet: Best Spirit of Competition award. Of course, the team also won the prize for Best Uniform, since Curaçao cooks cook with style.



Spotlight

El Gaucho Argentinean SteakhouseEl Gaucho Argentinean Steakhouse
The home of the biggest steak on the island! El Gaucho offers free shuttle from Curacao's hotels and resorts, plus free salad bar with any main dish. Great steaks and superb views from the hill of Klein Zurzak. Casual atmosphere.
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Tel: 5999 767 0067


Scampi's RestaurantScampi's Restaurant
The right place to dine for a scenic view on a waterfront deck and delightful seafood served by a courteous wait staff. Scampi's is well known for it scrumptious fried squid, octopus salad and variety of fresh seafood. Enjoy refreshing cocktails, dance the night away or invigorate your nightlife with special theme nights. Open from 5:00pm to midnight.
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Tel: 5999 465-0769


Renaissance® Curacao Resort & CasinoRenaissance® Curacao Resort & Casino
The brand new Renaissance Curaçao Resort & Casino, located in the historic capital city of Willemstad, offers fun, color and entertainment for any traveler looking for the ambiance of authentic island charm combined with European sophistication. The contemporary 237-room resort is nestled in the historic setting of the Rif Fort (built in 1828) and offers the most exclusive shopping, dining, casino and nightlife on the island. Highlights include a unique 32,000 sq ft private beach, generous island and ocean side balconies, plus the all new Carnaval Casino on-site. The 15,000 square foot Carnaval Casino offers a variety of the latest slot machines and challenging table games in the ambiance and exciting upbeat energy of Carnaval.
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Baden Powellweg 1
Willemstad, Curacao
Tel: 5999 435-5000
Fax: 5999 435-5001
Website: www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/curbr-renaissance-curacao-resort-and-casino/


Aqua Restaurant at Hilton CuracaoAqua Restaurant at Hilton Curacao
The Hilton's main restaurant overlooking the landscaped gardens and beach. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner every day. Specialty buffets available on theme nights several nights a week. After your meal, hit the casino! The Hilton also offers one of the island's largest casinos with over 180 slot machines.
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Tel: 5999 462-5000

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