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Centuries of Heritage

By Bob Morris

Curaçao's history is rich with lore and legend. Like most Caribbean islands, it was originally home to Amerindians, in this instance, the Arawaks, who migrated from South America some 6,000 years ago on their trek northward through the region. Archaeologists have discovered at least 10 sites in Curaçao that bear evidence of Arawak habitation, including the Hato Caves with striking petroglyphs that are thought to date back at least 1,500 years. In the 17th and 18th centuries, this network of limestone caverns also provided sanctuary for runaway slaves.

There are many stories regarding how Curaçao got its name. One legend has it that in 1500, Spanish explorer Alonso de Ojeda, on an expedition to chart the South American coast, left several sailors on the island after they came down with scurvy. When the ship returned some months later, it found the sailors remarkably fit and scurvy-free, thanks to the large amount of vitamin-C laden fruit on the island. And Ojeda is said to have named the island after an archaic word for "cure." A more likely story is that it was originally called Corazón, Spanish for "heart," and the name was later corrupted by Portuguese mapmakers.

After determining that the island had no gold and not enough fresh water to establish large farms, the Spanish eventually abandoned Curaçao, paving the way for the Dutch West India Company to lay claim to it in 1634. The first governor was Peter Stuyvesant, who later left the island to become one of the founders of what is now New York City.

The first Dutch settlers erected Willemstad's trademark buildings, painted them white and stuck them close together to save space and money. The technicolor façades for which the city is famous didn't come until much later and are attributed to a governor-general of the islands, the rather eccentric Albert Kikkert, known as "Froggie." He blamed his chronic headaches on glare from the white buildings and decreed in 1817 that they all be painted in various pastel shades, a mandate that has since spawned zillions of snapshots and postcards.

Curaçao's deep port and strategic location made it a prize for other nations, and the British twice won control of the island before it finally reverted to the Dutch with the Treaty of Paris in 1815. But the island languished until 1920, when oil was discovered off the coast of Venezuela and Curaçao became one of the major refinery centers.

After World War II, Curaçao became the administrative center for the Netherlands Antilles, which also includes Bonaire, Saba, Sint Eustatius and Sint Maarten.

A Legacy on Every Corner

When it comes to protecting its most treasured historical sites, Curaçao boasts one of the most zealous preservationist movements in the world. Under the leadership of the Pro Monument Foundation, a grassroots organization launched in 1993 and best known as ProMo, hundreds of noteworthy sites across the island have been recognized and earmarked for protection. Curaçao's preservationists have intervened to stop numerous developments that would threaten the historic townscape of Willemstad and have even won court rulings requiring developers to rebuild monuments, such as De Vijf Zinnen, a landmark mansion that was illegally demolished. In May of each year, ProMo sponsors Open Monuments Day to highlight the island's notable heritage and encourage residents and visitors to tour the many sites.

Curaçao's dedication to historic preservation was highlighted by its 10-year effort to have the capital Willemstad proclaimed as UNESCO World Heritage Site, a designation granted in 1997. With more than 700 monuments within its Historic Area, Willemstad is made up of four historic districts: 17th-century Punda, 18th-century Otrobanda and the 19th-century districts of Pietermaai and Scharloo.

Most notable among Willemstad's monuments are:

• Mikvé Israel-Emanuel Synagogue: Built in 1732 and the oldest synagogue in continuous use in the Western Hemisphere.
• Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge: Known locally as "The Swinging Old Lady" and built in 1888, this is the world's longest floating pedestrian bridge (700 ft.) and connects Punda and Otrobanda.
• Fort Amsterdam: Dating from 1635, this trapezoid-shaped fortification is now the seat of government for the Netherlands Antilles and houses the Governor's Palace.

Also worth visit are the landhuizen, former plantation homes built by well-to-do early settlers and dating from the 17th century. More than 80 landhuizen dot the island, often occupying spectacular settings. Among them are Jan Kok, built in 1654 and the oldest landhouse on the island, and Chobolobo, also home to the famed Curacao Liqueur, which like Willemstad's buildings comes in hues of red, green, orange and blue.