En Español

Sentinels of the Past

By Jane Ammeson

In the summer of 1634, Johannes van Walbeeck, a navigator and cartographer employed by the Dutch West Indies Company, captured the island of Curaçao, establishing a rule that has lasted for almost four centuries. But Van Walbeeck's success was also a lesson, proving the island was easy prey. So the Dutch built forts at strategic points along the coastline. The first, simply named Waterfort, went up that same year.

Waterfort no longer needs to protect Curaçao's charming capital, Willemstad, from Spain, France or England—nor from pirates and privateers. However, the fort, rebuilt in 1827 with the addition of terraces and turrets overlooking the sea, is one of the island's eight remaining fortresses. Built to repel invaders, these forts now invite visitors to sip cocktails on ramparts while watching the sunset and wander among a panoply of wonderful shops, hotels, restaurants and offices tucked within thick stone walls.

Part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Fort Amsterdam guards St. Anna Bay near Willemstad's famed Queen Emma Pontoon Bridge. The imposing building, painted yellow and highlighted with white trim, Palladian-style windows and green awnings, now contains government offices. Nestled inside is Fort Church, home of the United Protestant Church of Curaçao, and the newly renovated Protestant Cultural Historical Museum, which displays artifacts from its Dutch Protestant congregation. A community meeting place, Fort Church is also a popular concert venue.

The 19th-century Riffort, built to guard a part of Willemstad's Otrobanda district, features art galleries (like Gallery Mon Art, showcasing the works of island artists) and shops. Here, you can also enjoy a variety of restaurants ranging from Douwe Egberts Café, serving pastries and freshly roasted coffee, to the finest Swiss-French cuisine at Bistro Le Clochard, offering outdoor dining overlooking the water and an interior of cozy, low-ceilinged rooms.

Fort aficionados also won't want to miss Fort Nassau with a panoramic view of the island and a restaurant; Fort Waakzaamheid, built in 1803 to protect the outer perimeters of Willemstad; and the castle-like Fort Beekenburg located on Caracas Bay.